Dreaming of Madagascar
Madagascar is a true blend of Africa and Asia, with a zest of French influence. It is a dream for many, and the perfect destination for anyone who seeks adventure, breathtaking sceneries and off-the-beaten track experiences. From Kenya, it is a three-hour hop to the capital Antananarivo – also known as Tana – and another hour and half flight to reach some of the popular destinations. While most may travel to Madagascar for an extended period of time, it is possible to do and see a lot, even when time and budget are limited.
The plane started its descent over canyons and highlands as we approached Morondava. The profile of the western coast of Madagascar became visible through the window and with it, some of the mighty baobabs that make the country so famous. All around was an intense orange light, white and purple bougainvillea, and crowded streets full of smiling people wearing colourful clothes. A bit further down the road, we would meet the sweet and gentle breeze of the Indian Ocean.
Morondava is famous for its proximity to the Avenue of the Baobabs, which is home to the tallest and oldest trees of this kind, some being almost thirty meters tall and a thousand years old. Lush rice fields lead to this enchanted place where every day at sunrise and sunset, the baobabs show themselves in all their beauty for the delight of visitors and locals alike.
Some two hours away from the Avenue of the Baobabs is the Kirindy Forest. This private reserve hosts over fifty species of primates and amphibians, most of them only found in Madagascar. Kirindy is the place to go to connect with nature, animals, and the local people. A night or early morning walk is one of the best ways to see animals such as the Cocquerel giant lemur or the mouse lemur, the smallest primate in the world.
Despite the long distances and sometimes challenging roads, travelling by car is a great way to savour the essence of the country, understand its people and observe and connect with the changing landscapes. From Kirindy back to Tana is a six- hundred-kilometre journey through some of the most rural and isolated parts of the country.
Buzzing villages, rice fields, and wide rivers like the Tsiribihina, soon leave room to deserted highlands and small towns like Antsirabe, where the French architecture brings you back in time and the pousse pousse, the local rickshaw, is the best way to discover the city without using the car.
From Antsirabe, the roads twist and turn through mountainous landscapes and we finally arrived in Tana again. The city welcomes you with its lively markets, shops, cobblestone streets, dense traffic, fine architecture and gourmet bars and restaurants scattered across its many hills.
Not to miss in Tana is the Rova of Antananarivo also called the Queen’s Palace, a must-stop to learn about the history of the country, and where the royals of Madagascar used to reside. A few minutes’ walk from the palace is the Musée de la Photographie de Madagascar, where exhibitions aim to educate the public about Madagascar’s history through photography.
Finally, some twenty kilometres outside the city is the Lemurs’ Park, where you can have a close encounter with the famous ring-tailed lemur to perfectly wrap up your journey.
The plane bound to Nairobi leaves Tana in the same warm orange light of the arrival. Despite the short time, a week on the roads of Madagascar leaves you full of unique memories. If adventure and beauty could be a country, then that would certainly be Madagascar. I for one, cannot wait to return.
